Rombuk to Zhangmu

written by Joce:

On the road again, 8 hours of bounce and the pucker factor due to the windiness and height on a road as wide as a back lane in London. We left Shigatse very early a.m. and during our bouncey ride, we lost some body part (bus too) which forced our bus to take a major break... or should I say, brake. So, as travel surprises go, we sat on top of some Himalayan mountain overlooking a valley from 4,800 meters on high. Once our 2.5 hour wait was done, including listening to Bob Marley and rock picking we grabbed all our luggage, hopped on a local Everest bus (specially made with no shocks) and held on for dear life, including tightening the bras and reciting our Hail Mary's.

What awaited us was a guest house a la Tibet with window panes especially made for the wind to blow through, as well as being bunked 6 at a time. The food was good, but at this stage of the game, if we see another goddam bowl of rice, we're going to start using it as art on the walls. They made a mean crepe and of course, lots of beer available. The greatest thing about this particular leg of our adventure is that we've now made friends with the other nomads from other tours. Danish, German, Russians, some on buses, others on motorcycles, including some cyclists (Ya, I know, we think they're not well in the head either). And then there are the Tibetans, Sherpas (guides for climbers). The most remarkable thing that knows no language barrier, is a smile. One of so many that we have come across throughout our trip. A Tibetan smile stays with you - and I suspect forever.

After a very "white night" for Melanie and I, Monique slept like a baby (if you're going on Survivor Island - you'll lose - she'll win! We would have died long ago without Mone on this trip! She is my hero !) Let me just say that 5,800 meters wreaks havoc on your system. Its easy to get panic attacks as you can't catch your breath - and thats just lifting your damned beer glass. And then, I had a bit of a challenge with my sleeping bag shell as its like a cocoon. You know, where you the more you roll around the tighter it gets around you. Not good for a clausterphobic menopausal altitude- affected Joce. It hit Melanie quite hard and sadly, she had to bow out from our ride to Everest Base 1 Camp the following morning. So off Mone and I went, with our portable oxygen inhalers. We sucked back those suckers like there was no tomorrow and climbed up to the top of the "hill" where the prayer flags were and overlooking the "plateau" that housed all the climbers and guides, placed right at the base of Everest. 142 climbers summited the day before and they lost one member of their team. The day we were there a 13 year old boy summited setting a record. The weather we have to say, was remarkable, blue sky, no wind and -15/20 and no snow due to the intensity of the sun. (We're all beach blonds now). Its difficult to describe the scene here. You're the highest you can ever be, standing in front of the highest mountain in the world, surrounded by prayer flags and smiling, grateful people from all over the world. It wasn't a long stay, as again, the altitude does quite a number on your breathing and there is a maximum length of time you can stay or you begin to become quite ill. So off we went back to pick up Melanie, wrap her up, give her major oxygen, gravol (remember that bumpy ride) and embrace another 7 hour ride. What a trooper she was.

After holding our guide hostage in having a good break to fluff our pillows so-to-speak, and put our teeth back in place, including re-adjusting our underwear, we were off again, but this time the remaining 3 hours on a gorgeous highway laid out on the "plateau" which was something like going through the Sahara with the Himalayan mountains separating Tibet from Nepal. Just breathtaking. By then we descended to 5000 (yes, 5000m) passing through another "prayer pass". Approaching the mountains we then descended towards Zhangmu which is placed in a valley of ravines and very lush land. From desert to rain forest. Another "guest house" awaited us but this time the window panes didn't shake and offered a breathtaking view. I am also excited to report that Melanie changed from a very white color, to green, to now, a nicer shade of green and we were all breathing a lot easier - and stress "all". Needless to say by now I'm having "western toilet" envy as its been 2 days since I've seen one of those white seatie type toilets with a lid and you know, a lever that flushes water down the bowl. We won't even go there. As we unwind in Zhangmu, with roadways that were designed by cows - width included - I've never seen so much backing up, honking, moving 3 feet, backing up, honking, unbelievable - we're on our way for supper, thank God by foot. Many of our meals (safe those guest houses) are tibetan ( lots of carcass as I like to call it - in particular Yak), including Nepalese foods which are divine. No weight loss on this trip! The food was very good and then back to our guest house to pack up for tomorrow's adventure through Chinese immigration and Nepalese border crossing.

As we prepare ourselves in saying goodbye to Tibet, one mention of Tibetans are that they are such a gentle, warm people. When they greet you, they look right into your eyes - into your Soul. Three very old Souls in particular during my trip touched me deeply. Some in the markets, some in the sacred monasteries. I have no idea what they told me, but I will never forget their gift of "sight". The look in their eyes while they held my hand in theirs, hands that have worked very hard for so many years, hands that have also held their Buddhist spirituality through their prayer beads - there are just no words to describe a gift like that. No matter the distance, no matter the beliefs, no matter the culture, we all love, we all smile and all wish health, prosperity and protection. From Everest, this is what we offer to you through our passages.

Namaste

(Greeting meaning "The Light in me honors the Light in you")